The meats start rolling in around 10 after 6:

A rack of lamb. Two duck breasts. A bag of squid. Four soft-shell crabs. Veal scaloppine.  . . . 

Karen Wilets, caterer for the evening's party, remains cool. Excited, really. She loves the spontaneity of mystery-meat night. Smiles as she sits down to start to compose the evening's menu on a dry-erase board.

"The lamb will have to be an appetizer. . . . I'm wanting to do a soup. . . . I bought some beautiful greens at the farmers market - I'll do a duck breast salad. . . ."

Some of this will change as more proteins join the mix - and soon they do.

Two fat beef filets. A bag of scallops. A fresh salmon fillet. A bag of cooked shrimp. A single chicken breast. . . .

To most of us, this would be utter chaos. Invite guests to bring their own meat? Then turn it into an eight-course feast in two hours?

It was actually Wilets' idea.

The caterer was looking for a distinctive party theme a few years ago for her Mequon-based The Good Life Catering when the brainstorm hit: "What if I didn't know what I was going to cook?"

She put the proteins in guests' hands: Each is instructed to bring a single serving - 6 to 8 ounces - of any protein. (Tonight, several people cheat, bringing a whole rack of lamb, a whole - marinated - pork tenderloin, a large salmon fillet.)

When the parade of meats is over, Wilets puts together a menu entirely of her choosing.

Mystery meat dinner excites caterer, guests - JSOnline